Gran Canaria is the LGBTQ+ Haven of the Canary Islands

To paraphrase an old adage, birds of a feather flock together—while those with more resplendent plumage seek out exotic locales. Consider the LGBTQ+ oases we love the most: Fire Island, Mykonos, P’town, Ibiza, Palm Springs. They’re situated in the most extraordinary locales, often at the tip of the continent—or in some distant archipelago like the Canary Islands off the coast of Africa.

Hardly anyone I knew had visited Gran Canaria, or so I thought, but while traveling in Dublin, I met a male couple who vacationed in Maspalomas at least twice a year, and then my editor from Los Angeles told me he’d been to Gran Canaria, too, and there was also a German man I traveled with who’d relocated from Hamburg to live full-time in Las Palmas. All these birds from different countries were flying to the Canaries and it made me curious, and so I flew from Manhattan to Madrid and then down to Gran Canaria.

An archipelago of seven islands situated 62 miles off the southern coast of Morocco, the Canaries are the southernmost region of Spain, but as one Gran Canarian stated, “We are African people with a European sensibility, and a Caribbean soul.” To her point, Gran Canaria is where Christopher Columbus refueled and refreshed on three of his four voyages to the New World. A centuries-long relationship with three different continents—Africa, Europe, and America—has resulted in a polyglot culture in which the local accent is infused with traces of Cuban and Venezuelan Spanish. Regardless of where you wander on Gran Canaria, there’s a generosity of spirit that makes for an all-inclusive island where everyone is welcomed.

Viewed from the air, the Canaries look like a scattering of green and gold confetti floating on the blue Atlantic. The third largest isle is Gran Canaria, a nearly circular volcanic island that resembles a giant stingray or a skate. Circumnavigated by nearly 150 miles of coastline with forty miles of beachfront, Gran Canaria is also notable for its steep ravines and a mile-high summit. At the southern tip of the island are the famous sand dunes known as Dunas de Maspalomas.

For centuries, Maspalomas and its coastal lagoon La Charca has served as a winter residence for migratory birds such as egrets, spoonbills, ibis, herons, whimbrels, plovers, and sandpipers. These remarkable birds gravitate annually to Maspalomas where they feed and socialize on one thousand acres of living sand dunes. From sunrise to sunset, the lagoon and the surrounding dunes are a veritable avian celebration. 

All of which sounds similar to migratory gays who island-hop throughout the winter, fluttering from island to island in search of sun, sex, and fun. Maspalomas and its sister beach Playa del Inglés have been LGBTQ+ havens for decades, especially for Europeans, and now, increasingly, a certain breed of North American snowbird has discovered this port of call in the Atlantic.

Walking along the oceanfront promenade in Maspalomas, I was often reminded of South Beach’s Ocean Drive during the Versace/Madonna era. The diversity of people, the parade of outfits, café culture and champagne bars, the buzz of nightclubs and music, and of course, the ocean with its broad beach and sugar-fine sand. The entire scene shimmers beneath an endless series of sunny days (more than 330 annually) and an average year-round temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit. In short, what’s not to love?

Prior to its rebirth in the 1960s, Maspalomas was known for tomato plantations and sharecropper housing, all of which changed with the development of tourism. Nearly four million visitors arrive annually on Gran Canaria following in the footsteps of Agatha Christie who surfed the beach at Las Canteras in Las Palmas, and Hollywood film productions, including John Huston’s Moby Dick.

And while we’re on the subject, Gran Canaria is celebrated for its bananas. In fact, the Gran Canarian banana has a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) seal. Notable for its sweetness and an intense aroma, the Gran Canarian banana is far more flavorful than a plain old American banana—and you can taste for yourself with a two-hour banana plantation tour at Hacienda la ReKompensa where raw bananas are but the start of it.

Given the banana’s import on the island, it’s no wonder you see bananas everywhere, and especially in Maspalomas during the various LGBTQ+ celebrations that mark the island’s high season from October through May. This is a town that has numerous Pride celebrations, commencing with Maspalomas Fetish Pride in October, Winter Pride in November, Adventure Week in January, Bear Carnival in April, and the eleven-day Maspalomas Pride festival in May. 

The beach at Maspalomas is lined with oceanfront luxury resorts, including  Seaside Palm Beach and its sister property Grand Hotel Residencia, both of which are situated in an enclave known as the oasis. Named for the indigenous oasis palm grove which surrounds the 10-acre lagoon, the lush neighborhood is comprised of low-rise villas that flank the fabled dunes of Maspalomas. From my oceanfront balcony at Seaside Palm Beach, I watched the migratory birds swoop and dive as scores of visitors trekked along the waterfront and hiked the dunes. At night, the moon rose from the ocean and topped the palms.

Nestled in a nature reserve with lush gardens and five pools, Seaside Palm Beach is the sole member of Design Hotels on Gran Canaria. The crescent-shaped, curvilinear hotel recalls Miami Beach’s Fontainebleau and the Miami Modern architecture of Morris Lapidus. The hotel’s retro Seventies sensibility was recently refurbished by the Paris-based architect and interior designer, Alberto Pinto, who celebrates Seventies glamour with a bold palette of vibrant colors and mid-century design. The five-star hotel’s Bar Salon evokes the classic VIP lounges of the jet-set era, while the hotel’s rooms and suites feature pop art and four distinct color schemes with complementary furnishings. Guests choose from five restaurants including Il Giardino and La Bodega, both of which are overseen by the charming Italian chef Lorenzo Fauri who utilizes local purveyors to honor his grandmother’s recipes. Dolci include a delectable goat yogurt cheesecake and handmade amaretti.

A member of Leading Hotels of the World, the neighboring Grand Hotel Residencia is a serene sanctuary for those guests who prefer a more secluded experience in Maspalomas. Designed to replicate a Spanish colonial hacienda, complete with entry gate and drive, the five-star hotel feels like a private estate amidst the oasis palm grove. Dinner on the terrace at the main restaurant is marked by gentlemen in jackets and a sommelier who showcases a broad selection of Gran Canarian wines.

As tempting as it might be to remain in Maspalomas—and many visitors do—there is much more to the volcanic island. I was told to think of Gran Canaria as a minor continent, complete with various climates and landscapes based on location and altitude. In 2019, UNESCO designated the Gran Canaria Biosphere Reserve which comprises 43% of the island’s central and southwestern landmass. Reason enough to head inland, and so I climbed into a car. After a tortuous road journey complete with switchbacks and hairpin curves on vertiginous roads, we entered into a heavenly Canarian pine forest near the summit of Gran Canaria. Towering over the island at an altitude of nearly 6,000 feet is Roque Nublo, a 250-foot-high volcanic rock monolith that is visible for miles.

We were headed for Parador de Cruz de Tejeda, which is located nearly a mile above sea level. Founded in 1928, the paradores of Spain are a collection of luxury hotels housed in historic buildings or situated in extraordinary natural settings. Each parador excels at regional gastronomy with a commitment to quality and sustainability.

Located in the village of Tejeda, the second smallest village on the island, Parador de Cruz de Tejeda is a cliffside property atop one of the highest points of Gran Canaria. In other words, you’re miles from the scene at Maspalomas and perfectly positioned high above the cloud line. From nearly every room, there are sweeping panoramic views of Roque Nublo and the surrounding mountains.

As the sun set in a brilliant display of orange and red, I watched from the infinity pool which overlooks the volcanic caldera far below. At Parador de Cruz de Tejeda, there’s a strong focus on restorative health and well-being with a hydrotherapy spa that includes Turkish bath, Jacuzzi, hydromassage pool, as well as sauna, steam, and outdoor solarium. Wrapped in white plush bathrobes, guests wander the halls in a state of sated bliss.

At dinner, I sat in the cliffside restaurant, high above a field of billowy clouds that blanketed the mountains in a mystical silver light. Gran Canaria is a certified UNESCO Starlight Tourist Destination, and once night falls, Parador de Cruz de Tejeda offers a stargazing experience complete with resident astronomer who maps out the constellations in a night sky brilliant with stars. For those interested in Gran Canaria’s pre-Hispanic troglodyte past, the nearby village of Artenara features a visitors center and museum that replicates the caves and temples of the island’s aboriginal inhabitants.

Equally fascinating are Gran Canaria’s vineyards and bodegas which produce stellar wines with their own Denomination of Origin. Santa Brigida, known as the village of wine and flowers, is home to Finca Escudero. The vineyards and olive grove at Finca Escudero are meticulously managed by Juan Escudero whose grandfather built the estate nearly one hundred years ago. The Italianate house with its colonnades, porches, and terraces is an exceptional example of Canarian architecture that highlights its idyllic setting amidst lush orchards and flowering trees. As I sipped the estate’s Tempranillo and Marmajuelo wines, Juan reminded me that the Canary Islands have cultivated wines since the 17^th century, another reminder of Canarians’ love for the good life.

Gran Canaria’s gastronomy is a mélange of local produce and maritime flavors seasoned with the culinary heritage of Africa, Europe, and Latin America. Apart from locally grown mangos, avocados, and papayas which are plentiful on breakfast buffets, my go-to Canarian specialty was “papas arrugadas,” those tiny salt-crusted potatoes served with a spicy mojo sauce. Known as “papas bonitas,” the potatoes carry their own Denomination of Origin, and they come in nearly fifty varieties, all of them small and succulent and tremendously addictive.

For caffeine addicts, Gran Canaria produces the only coffee cultivated in Europe, and its strong flavor is often complemented by Gran Canarian rum. In Arucas, the Arehucas rum distillery is the oldest in Europe, and one of the island’s specialties is sweet honey rum, a traditional Canarian liqueur often served as a post-prandial cocktail.

On the morning of my departure, I watched as the sun rose over the beach. The sand was groomed, and the sun loungers were perfectly aligned, facing the ocean. It was the start of another day in paradise and for a moment, I wondered what it would be like to miss the plane and remain in Gran Canaria. No doubt I wasn’t the first person to imagine such a scenario.